Maldives - A Short Vacation
In Jan 2023 when Covid restrictions had ended, my husband and I got away to the Maldives for a much needed holiday. We spent a week staying at three different islands in the same atoll, though now I wished I had stayed longer for a few more days. You’re not wrong to think Maldives is for those who can afford to splurge, but that's only if you choose to stay in luxury resorts to which they own the right to operate solely on their own little island. So obviously you’d be paying a premium to be there. We didn’t. We traveled like a normal tourist would but also like a local. Because of this, a vacation here was possible. Including return flights, you could manage a week’s spending between USD 1400-2000 per person depending where you’re coming from. You can cut down the cost further if you travel with a group of friends and share the accommmodation. It was our first time to such an exotic destination so I was intrigued to be in the midst of the local people and immerse in their culture a little, and the only way to experience this is to stay where locals live. You will truly come to appreciate this paradise a whole lot more. As I researched the map for Velana International Airport (VLE) on Malé, one of the closes atoll is the Alif Alif Atoll. First a piece of advice, if you are going to the Maldives, expect a trip constantly surrounded by water and you need to be comfortable with this especially if you can’t swim. Island life means you may feel a bit stranded since transportation out of the island needs to be pre-arranged and you can’t just leave at a moment’s notice. However, you will be fine along with many other tourists and locals with the island’s well-stocked supplies and provisions.
How I Did The Planning
Unless you are staying in Malé, to reach anywhere else your options are speedboats, ferries (dhoni) or sea-planes.
I wanted a direct speedboat transfer from Velana International Airport to the hotel on arrival day. (The fastest trip is about 1.5hrs)
I wanted to catch the public ferry connection between islands, where the fare is cheap and travelling time no more than an hour long.
I wanted a direct speedboat transfer to the airport on departure day. (Again, about 1.5hrs is all I can tolerate)
Accommodation that is somewhat mid-range, with breakfast and air-conditioning as must-haves, free use of snorkelling gear and can arrange activities/excursions for me. (Which by the way many will offer these)
The Itinerary
Day 1 | Thoddoo | Stay: Coco Villa (3 Star) | Snorkelling, Bike riding, Traditional line fishing
Day 4 | Rasdhoo | Stay: Holiday Home Rasdhoo (3 Star) | Snorkelling, Sandbank excursion
Day 6 | Ukulhas | Stay: West Sands (4 Star) | Snorkelling, Trolling fishing
Day 8 | Departure
Because I’m not a strong swimmer and my husband doesn’t know how to, we missed out on many water excursions Maldives have on offer. Apart from the various water sports, you could swim with the magical Manta rays, sea turtles or even whale sharks. There are also many scuba diving and snorkelling spots to explore to your heart’s content. So plan well for these excursions.
1| In Thoddoo
We were exhausted stepping off the plane, flight was delayed. But guess what, the speedboat booked with the hotel didn’t leave us stranded. It waited for us, the last ones to get on and I felt terrible for the passengers who waited an hour onboard. 90 minutes later, the excitement returned to our faces as we reached the pier.
Thoddoo is full of lush greenery and paths for your walking (or biking) pleasure. We rented bicycles from our villa and had a blast exploring the entire island. At one point we rode through a plantation full of coconut trees, unsure if we were trespassing but the locals seemed okay with it. The island is known for being the largest fruit supplier for its surround, plenty of yummy fresh papaya everyday! This is also where I had a go at snorkelling as a beginner in the shallow reef, it didn’t take long before I spotted a handful of sea life. What a treat! We also tried line fishing where a local Maldivian skipper took us out to sea on his boat, enabling me to capture a photo of the island from afar. Unfortunately we didn’t catch any fish, though at one point my husband thought he did but it was just a rock he pulled up, no kidding. Our excursion went well into sunset, eventually pitch dark. Next we heard splashes (lots of them) and we suddenly realised we were not alone. Calmly, our skipper said it was probably a shark or the flying fish or manta rays jumping around. We could only imagine.
What else can I say, white sandy beaches, crystal blue waters, perfect weather, friendly locals, great food available and many quality accommodations. Thoddoo is well-balanced for a relaxing holiday for solo travellers, couples and families.
Coco Villa Review: 9.5/10
The food is impeccable with the best local produce and flavours. They do amazing Maldivian breakfasts. Staff are all really attentive and friendly. The space has a boutique feel, is well designed, great for chilling out with your feet in the sand, and lizard creatures that hang around.
Where to eat: Fishka - Tuna steak was freshly caught and the taste is incredible. We also enjoyed casual dining at Food Land for its variety and affordable prices.
2| In rasdhoo
Early morning we arrived at the dock around 6am in Thoddoo and left for Rasdhoo on the dhoni, aka the slow boat or ferry. It chugs along nice and calm and we were able to spot lots of flying fish skimming along frantically, and if you’re lucky, dolphins. At Rasdhoo pier I was so surprised to see the waters teeming with sea life, they certainly weren’t afraid of any humans. It was like an outdoor aquarium, except this is how it’s supposed to be in nature - nursery sharks, stingrays, eels and countless other tropical fishes all looking for a feed. After checking into our accommodation, I went for a snorkel and loved it. However, the shallow part the reef is not that extensive so be careful and watch out for the sudden drop if you’re new to this. The next day we decided to go for the sandbank excursion, what a highlight it was! The journey takes you through stunning see-through reefs to a secluded beach in the middle of the ocean. The guide drops you off and for half a day the sandbank is yours. Perfect for a picnic, go for a swim and snorkel, read a book, whatever you want. But we had ourselves a mini olympics and competed long jumps on the sand.
Holiday Home Rasdhoo Review: 7/10
The breakfast is basic continental, fine for me. Our room was okay but had hoped for a private balcony which in fact was a communal one. Great for drying the laundry though!
Where to eat: Lemon Drop - restaurant setting with lots of variety to choose from. The more affordable option is the Bamboo Hut where you can try locally baked goods and traditional Maldivian snacks.
3| In ukulhas
Ukulhas is another popular destination we felt like we should visit. It seemed the island was too used to holiday makers I hardly saw the island’s inhabitants out and about, apart from those working in tourism and hospitality. Let’s just say the locals weren’t interested in mingling with holiday makers unlike the other two islands. The beach was also a bit crowded and wasn’t my scene to be honest. I preferred the beaches of Thoddoo and Rasdhoo a lot more. However, we had the best thrill of our lives in Ukulhas, as we went fishing by jigging for the first time. Off we went on the speedboat with two local guides, with no experience, what were we doing? Actually a lot! Our guide taught us perfectly how to fish and between my husband and I we caught like seven fish in half an hour. No joke, some were gigantic especially the snapper. Boy we had a good arm workout, so much fun and so worth it. While this was happening, we relished under the unforgettable brilliance of the Maldivian sunset. The moment was soul-quenching. Later that evening we took two of our catch back to the hotel and the chef made two meals out of it all complimentary. This experience will stick in my memory for a very long time.
West Sands Review: 8/10
A large hotel so there were lots of people and felt busy. Lobby area is a bit dark and some steps to watch out for. Our room was wonderful as it was a suite with a fancy bath tub, but I found the beachfront noise unappealing.
Where to eat: We ate mostly at the hotel for convenience but I’d say definitely check out google recommendations. However, a visit to the grocery store Faiykuri Mart is a must, it has a nice range of imported goods like chocolate, ice creams and cold drinks.
Final Thoughts
Each island specialised in its own ways and I wouldn’t have known nor appreciated this if I had only visited one island.
Thoddoo was my favourite hands down. Since it is the biggest island of the three, you don’t need to walk far to feel secluded in your own piece of paradise even with other tourists around. The reef is wide and shallow, in my opinion safer for families with young children or like me who is not a confident swimmer.
Rasdhoo is great if you dare to snorkel out into the deep waters, I heard that sea turtles are easily spotted. It has rocky and secluded sandy beaches not tainted by large crowds. The sea life surrounding this island appears to be the most vibrant.
In Ukulhas I found the beachfront where we stayed was rather touristy and lost its local cultural appeal. However, the fishing was at its finest! A must-try if you want to give it a go with no prior experience.
Maldives is a paradise holiday destination to have on your bucket list. The abundance of sea life and natural beauty took my breath away and I was renewed in a very profound way. Before the trip, my husband and I had been quite occupied with work life and had been constantly under environmental stress, so much that we were on the border of burning out. There was something about the island adventures that helped switch off my exhausted mind, and I didn’t have to try very hard. Just being there changed me. It was so easy to explore and have fun at my doorstep, forced to live in the moment and surrender all the tensions I had accumulated. Would I come back? In a heartbeat! Though next time I’d be keen to explore other atolls and will consider the sea-plane option to go a bit further out. Maybe you are still searching for a place to wind down, well may I suggest Maldives, a place of retreat.
Cost
Accommodation
Altogether for 2 people, one week accommodation was USD 940 plus local taxes:
3 Nights at Coco Villa USD 384 (Per night $128 Deluxe Double w/BF)
2 Nights at Holiday Home Rasdhoo USD 212 (Per night $106 w/BF)
2 Nights at West Sands USD 344 (Per night $172 Grand Ocean View Suite w/BF buffet)
Food
Limited our food spending to about USD 50 per day for 2 people. We did have three meals that were more fancy at nicer restaurants at twice the cost. I’d say in total we had spent closer to USD 450 for one week which included other snacks, drinks and ice creams from the local grocery store.
Activities
Altogether for 2 people, we spent USD 180:
Bicycle Rental USD 10
Fishing (Line) USD 40
Sandbank Excursion USD 50
Fishing (Jigging) USD 80
(Prices differ across hotels and guesthouses)
Water Transport
Altogether for 2 people, we spent USD 190:
VLE Airport to Thoddoo: Speedboat (Scheduled, Shared and Pre-booked) USD 35 one-way pp.
Thoddoo to Rasdhoo: Public Ferry “Dhoni” (Scheduled, Walk-in) USD 5 one-way pp.
Rasdhoo to Ukulhas: Public Ferry “Dhoni” (Scheduled, Walk-in) USD 5 one-way pp.
Ukulhas to VLE Airport: Speedboat (Scheduled, Shared and Pre-booked) USD 50 one-way pp.
For more information see Atoll Transfer.
Before you go, do consider the following:
Book in advance for special deals on your accommodation and flights. It varies with season so be realistic about how much to pay. We went in January and the weather was calm, the water was clear and the heat/humidity was bearable. In windier season, the reef will be cloudy and you won’t have as much fun snorkelling. Best time to snorkel is Jan to April.
Always dress appropriately and be respectful of the local community. Cover up whenever you are out and about. (Even a guy should have a t-shirt on) I’d recommend choosing more conservative swimwear and daily outfits if you want to be friends with the locals. Don’t make it awkward for them to interact with you.
If you get motion sickness easily or you’re not sure how you will be on the water, then you should definitely bring some anti-nausea tablets for the boat ride. Just be mentally prepared if it’s your first time on speedboats. It’s quite a unique experience.
Avoid large luggages as it’s awkward, bulky, heavy and challenging to transfer on and off the boat. Instead, bring backpacks and carry-on sized luggages. Waterproof is best. You will thank me later. (If you’re flying on a sea-plane, check with the airline for luggage size and weight allowances)
Bring USD cash if you want the best exchange rate. When we arrived at VLE airport, we were presented with 2 options. Either at the foreign exchange counter, or a lone man carrying a money belt will be advertising his service. The latter option gives you a better deal by cutting out the fees. He will calculate his rate in front of you and you can decide if it’s a good deal compared to the counter.
Only few of the restaurants/cafes offer card payment, otherwise cash currency payment is how most shops prefer. So it’d be wise to carry both.
You can actually exchange your leftover Maldivian Rufiyaa back to USD with this same man at the airport I told you about (or some other person). I didn’t know this until he approached me about it. So don’t worry if you swapped a bit too much at the beginning, at least you’ll have peace of mind vs. not having enough.
It is an Islamic nation, so there are mosques that have frequent public prayer times and chants will be played out loud. So accommodations near these landmarks can be noisy. Figure out where they are, and choose your accommodation accordingly.
Make sure to give yourself time to explore the city of Malé where VLE airport is, the coffee and the boutique gift shops in CBD somewhere as well as the waterfront. Totally do-able if your departing flight is in the late afternoon.
I like to have data access on my mobile at all times for emergency, or just the freedom to listen to Spotify while lounging on the beach. I used Nomad eSIM.
Finally, make sure to purchase travel and medical insurance that covers for the range of activities you will be doing. You never know what can happen while on holiday.
